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| Tues. 18 Aug '09 |
| Dining | LOS ANGELES |
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The Condimental Divide
Accoutrements that set one cheese cart apart from the rest
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Some chefs take the straight-and-easy road to cooking, while others, like Laurent Quenieux, see it as an adventure.
At his new Bistro LQ, the French-born chef is known for his use of game and offal in exotic and courageous presentations, but he doesn't stop there: With a dizzying array of sweet and savory house-made condiments, he takes even the classic cheese cart to new heights.
There are 20 to 30 different cow's-, goat's- and sheep's-milk cheeses offered nightly, with several accoutrements served in tiny pots to go with them. A plate can have five to seven pieces or as many as 15 ($8, $15 or $24 depending on the number of diners), and comes with bite-size handmade breads.
With so many choices, the staff will offer some direction--try the sweet blueberry jelly with sharp Roquefort, or cumin seeds with smoky Alsatian Munster--but it's more fun to explore. Have a bit of bright-tasting apple gelée with a bite of the earthy Pont-l'Évêque, or try one of Quenieux's favorites, the tangy green tomato ketchup (click here for the recipe) with runny Sainte-Maure goat cheese.
Save the truffle honey for last: One bite by itself is like a pre-dessert dessert.
Bistro LQ, 8009 Beverly Blvd., Mid-City; 323-951-1088 or bistrolq.com
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