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| Tues. 02 Feb '10 |
| Dining | WASHINGTON D.C. |
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Italian Hump Day
A neighborhood American spot raises the red-sauce flag
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After years of relative drought, there's a sudden surge of upscale Italian food in D.C. But authentic, home-style red sauce remains a rarity--that is, unless you want to eat it on Wednesday night.
That's when Ris Lacoste offers "Little Italy" specials at her eponymous new bistro, Ris. There, in addition to her standard menu of Americana flavors, Lacoste hosts theme nights on a weekly rotation: Mondays mean meatloaf and Saturday is "date night," for example.
The Massachusetts native modeled Wednesday's specials after meals at Italian restaurants in Boston's North End. And while there are no red-checkered tablecloths, the dishes scream "Corleone."
Three massive, perfectly browned veal-and-pork meatballs rest on a generous tangle of tomato-laced spaghetti (pictured, $16). This herculean helping arrives with two slices of buttery garlic toast and a side salad.
Pasta e fagiole is a bowl of comfort with escarole and white beans ($8) in a broth thickened with Parmesan rinds. Buttery veal Marsala ($22) is pounded thin and served with broccoli rabe over fettuccine.
Special desserts could include a silky chocolate hazelnut semifreddo ($8) or pistachio-chocolate cannolis ($8).
Any night of the week, fans of Lacoste's meticulous Americana flavors at 1789 can still find perfectly cooked, delicate sole à la meunière ($22) and her signature lime-marinated scallop margarita ($14).
But you know what they say about "When in Rome...".
Ris, 2275 L St. NW, at 23rd St. NW; 202-730-2500 or risdc.com
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