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| Tues. 02 Jun '09 |
| Dining | LOS ANGELES |
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Italian Stallion
Domenico ups the pasta ante in Silver Lake
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LA Mill brought pork belly BLTs and Chemex brews to Silver Lake's reservoir neighborhood, and then Reservoir came with its rustic, seasonal menu and look. The dining renaissance is now complete with Domenico Ristorante, a newcomer for pastas and Italian specialties.
With its all-white interior and stylish chandeliers, Domenico's modish look fits the changing area in the best way. But the close-knit sidewalk tables and affable servers keep it the ideal local haunt with laid-back charm.
The menu, which doesn't change throughout the day, spans Italy with updated riffs on classic dishes. Plump scallops get a boost of rich flavor from braised escarole and luscious parmesan cream sauce ($15), and instead of the typical fried calamari rings with marinara, you get thick, tender strips served with a savory pine nut romesco ($13). Some pastas are homemade--like soft, purple potato agnolotti stuffed with black truffles ($25)--others are more homespun, like the large spirals coated in wild boar and porcini sauce ($21). The custardy torta della nonna ($8) is near perfection, tasting as if the owner's grandmother actually made it.
These aren't the prices of old Silver Lake, but until the restaurant gets a beer and wine license, the option to BYO keeps it reasonable (and packed).
Domenico Ristorante, 1637 Silver Lake Blvd., Silver Lake; 323-661-6166 or domenicoristorantesilverlake.com
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Domenico's Menu |
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