Hogs and Hipsters

The Brooklyn Kitchen’s butchery classes are worth their weight in meat

Part anatomy lecture, part gonzo cooking show, Tom Mylan′s butchery classes at The Brooklyn Kitchen in Williamsburg take Lord of the Flies imagery to the next level. While a pig′s head stares at a dozen hungry carnivores, Mylan (the meat-blogging in-house butcher for nearby Diner and Marlow & Sons restaurants) deftly dissects the whole hog while he speaks intently on the honor of buying heritage meats, suggests ways to prepare each cut-and gives tips on turning pig's ears into dog toys.

Mylan′s classes aren't for the faint of heart: His curmudgeonly spirit is what makes standing for two hours so entertaining, but be prepared for some major snarkiness on just about any topic, colorful language included. The cost of his class ($75), though, is a steal—if only for the amount of premium pork you take home (about eight pounds′ worth of any cut you want).

If a swine demo is none-too-kosher, Mylan teaches a chicken class in which he compares four types of fowl (store-bought, store-bought organic, farm-fresh organic and freshly killed)—and another on lamb butchery.

It′s worth arriving early to browse through the shop′s well-curated selection of kitchen stuff, from everyday useful items to the have-to-have obscure products. Mylan′s butchery classes are on Tuesday nights; other classes taught by local enthusiasts, such as pie-making and pickling, are also offered. Check the Brooklyn Kitchen′s web site for up-to-date class schedules.

The Brooklyn Kitchen, 616 Lorimer St., Brooklyn; 718-389-2982 or thebrooklynkitchen.com

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