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Hit D.O.C. Wine Shop for obscure values

Anyone can make a dinner party impression with a well-known, expensive wine. But we prefer to bring under-the-radar wines that offer dazzling value and give you something to talk about between courses.

Bottles produced in up-and-coming regions from lesser-known grapes are often the best deals at a wine store. Our go-to source for obscure values is Williamsburg's year-old D.O.C. Wine Shop.

Owner Claudio Coronas, a native of Sardinia who owns nearby D.O.C. Wine Bar and PT restaurants, stocks the parlorlike space with bottles you'll never see at an ordinary liquor store. Rare Italian grapes are Coronas's specialty, but he also carries other small-production wines and spirits that are sure to impress.

On our last visit, we found these three deals:

2007 Domaine Uby Colombard-Ugni Blanc ($10) This Gascogne white, made from the same grapes used for Cognac and Armagnac, smells like Sauvignon Blanc, with amped-up tropical and Asian fruit flavors.

2006 Argiolas Perdera ($15) A ruby-colored gem made with Sardinian-grown Monica grapes, it has the dark berry flavors and a spicy kick reminiscent of Cotes du Rhone reds.

2004 La Mondianese Ruché ($19) From Piedmont, this rose-scented red is a great stand-in for Pinot Noir. Made from the little-known Ruché grape, it's medium-bodied with tart red berry flavors and a peppery finish.

D.O.C. Wine Shop, 147 Broadway (between Bedford and Driggs aves.), Brooklyn; 718-388-0087 or docwineshop.com

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