The award for Chicago's most relentlessly savory brunch went to The Publican--until Branch 27 launched its own last month.
There, chef John Manion turned his hangover cravings into a Sunday-morning menu of egg-topped flatbread, shrimp and grits, and killer chilaquiles: fried tortillas simmered in an ancho and guajillo chile sauce with pico de gallo and poached eggs.
But his ideal antidote for a bleary Sunday morning also happens to be our favorite dish on the menu: pasta with a runny egg. The first incarnation of the dish was astounding in its simple satisfaction. Manion tossed hollow bucatini pasta, roasted squash and kale in nutty brown butter, topping the savory, wintry pasta with fried sage, nutmeg, curls of ricotta salata and an oozing poached egg (pictured).
The dish has since evolved (Manion has been tweaking his menus nonstop, even introducing a late-night bar menu last Friday). While the new version--made with oven-dried tomatoes, red chilies, olives, garlic and capers--has its charms, the original balanced sweet and savory with the satisfying grace of a brunch classic.
So Manion has kindly shared the recipe (click here to download). His brunch menu will continue to develop (the newest addition is a Cuban sandwich), but this dish merits a constant place on your home table, come morning, noon or night.
Branch 27, 1371 W. Chicago Ave.; 312-850-2700 or branch27.com
