Mellow(er) Yellow

An old liqueur learns some new tricks

Limoncello, the sweet Italian lemon liqueur from the sunny Amalfi Coast, is too cloying for some. But John des Rosiers swears it's nothing a little yuzu and Key lime juice can't fix.

At his new Lake Bluff restaurant, Inovasi, des Rosiers updates the centuries-old limoncello recipe (lemon rinds, grain alcohol, sugar and water, plus time) with the addition of Key lime and yuzu juice (click here to download the recipe).

Yuzu, an aromatic Japanese citrus fruit that des Rosiers calls "the citrus all lemons wish they could be," has a concentrated, herbaceous flavor that makes for prime liqueur fodder. Along with the lime, it cuts the limoncello's sweetness and adds complexity.

Cartons or jars of yuzu juice are increasingly common on gourmet market shelves, and standard fare at Japanese markets (find it online here). Des Rosiers' modern interpretation may not make a convert out of sweet-haters (if it weren't sugary, it wouldn't be limoncello), but it's certainly a step in a more refined direction.

For an even more summery concoction, make des Rosiers' Teddy's Bully cocktail (so named for Teddy Roosevelt's penchant for lemony drinks, and the old-fashioned slang for "awesome"). Shake limoncello with a few basil leaves and ice. Serve on the rocks, topped with sparkling lemonade and garnish with a sprig of basil.

Inovasi, 28 E. Center Ave. (at E. Scranton Ave.), Lake Bluff; 847-295-1000 or inovasi.us

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