Domestic Bliss

Pastoral is an American cheese list's best friend

American artisanal cheesemaking has come a long way since Laura Chenel introduced California to fresh goat cheese in the late 1970s. And the Midwest has established itself as a hotbed of artisan cheese production (fun fact: Wisconsin has over 70 artisan dairies).

One of the best places to find the region's offerings is Pastoral. Their two outposts stock over a dozen local cheeses ("local" includes Wisconsin, Michigan and Indiana), and another 60 from across the country.

But their charming shops aren't the only places that Pastoral spreads the artisan cheese gospel. If you've had a great American cheese at a restaurant lately, chances are it's from them. They provide domestic cheeses to Graham Elliot, The Bristol, Atwood Café and one sixtyblue--to name just a few.

Most recently, they guided chef Ryan Poli's transition from international to all-domestic cheese plate at Perennial. Perennial's plate ($16; pictured) is an homage to Midwest artisans (Green City Market produce completes the pairings).

From left to right, there's pungent Winnimere from Jasper Hill (not local, but its rind is washed in Goose Island's Matilda) with gingery carrots; Holland's Family Farm Marieke gouda with apples and Seedling's apple butter; creamy Ewe Bloom from Prairie Fruits Farm with chili cauliflower and pickled raisins; and Zingerman's The City Goat goat cheese with truffled beets.

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