Greek Out
Try Taxim for a taste of Greek terroir
Retsina may have been en vogue in the sixties (ask your parents), but today's Greek wine vocabulary has grown to include Xinomavro, Assyrtiko, Aidani and Moschofilero. And the best place to find these indigenous grapes is the all-Greek wine list at Wicker Park's four-month-old Taxim.
We went to the man behind the list, longtime Greek wine advocate and importer Ted Diamantis, to get the skinny on the country's most compelling new wines--and the best pairings for chefs David Schneider and Jan Rickerl's excellent contemporary Greek cooking.
Domaine Skouras 2008 Moschofilero ($9/glass or $34/bottle) This crisp, aromatic white--similar to a Muscadet--boasts floral notes and subtle spice. Try it with the whole roasted Cretan sea bass with garlicky dandelion greens ($32).
Domaine Karydas 2005 Xinomavro ($15/glass or $52/bottle) This tiny winemaker in Naoussa only makes wines from Xinomavro, aka "Greece's Pinot Noir." Burgundian in style, it has red fruit on the nose and hints of rose petals and spices. It pairs well with braised fava beans with lamb confit and house-made yogurt ($11).
Domaine Sigalas Vinsanto ($14/glass) This sweet, rich, amber-colored dessert wine is made with Assyrtiko and Aidani grapes from 50-year-old vines. Try it with the boughatsa, phyllo-wrapped custard topped with powdered sugar and a squeeze of lemon ($7).
Taxim, 1558 N. Milwaukee Ave. (near North Ave.); 773-252-1558 or taximchicago.com
