Subterranean Sabor
Lakeview's new Chilam Balam is a tiny space with big flavor
Market-driven cuisine and Mexican cuisine: two things that Chicago has in spades. A restaurant that combines the two is far less common--hence our excitement about Chilam Balam and its Green City Market-based Mexican.
Chef Chuy Valencia learned the ropes at Adobo Grill and under the tutelage of Rick Bayless, though his grandfather in Colima, Mexico--who grew fruits and vegetables and butchered his own meat--gets credit, too.
At Chilam Balam, you'll find flavor and execution that belie the young age (23) of the chef, who opened the 42-seat restaurant last month. Gunthorp Farm pork ribs with Oaxacan Pasilla chile glaze ($10) are smoky and sweet, with a slow burn that builds as you chew.
Chicken flautas come covered in chipotle-mezcal sauce, sweet-tart pickled onions and homemade queso fresco (pictured; $9). Hearty memelas (cornmeal tarts; $8.50) are topped with Nordic Creamery goat cheese and chile de arbol salsa.
The menu changes each month, with specials inspired by Mexican holidays. Around Dia de los Muertos (November 1), look for homey dishes like squash tamales, short rib stew with prickly pear and pan de muerto (sweet bread with anise).
The belowground space is tiny but festive thanks to Mexican artwork, fabric and knickknacks. Added bonus: It's BYOB--and plans to stay that way--though fresh mixers (for margaritas and sangria) are always on hand.
Chilam Balam, 3023 N. Broadway St. (between Wellington and Barry); 773-296-6901 or chilambalamchicago.com
