A Reason to Waffle
The Publican's Belgian waffle, in the comfort of your own home
Chicago has its fair share of Dutch and Swedish pancakes. But its best Belgian-style waffle isn't at an old-timey breakfast house--it's on The Publican's dessert menu.
Since this meat-centric restaurant opened (its one-year birthday is next week), the surprisingly light, barely sweet waffle served with whipped honey butter has been a staple (click here to download the recipe).
Its simple brilliance lies in the airy texture and yeasty flavor, which develop as the batter rests and rises overnight. Come morning, you'll have a batter with flavors more complex than anything Betty Crocker ever dreamed of.
The waffle has stayed the same since day one; only the fruit topping changes with the seasons. Currently it's paired with lightly pickled plums from Seedling Orchard and Klug Farms; soon it will come with stewed apples and caramelized pears.
For added charm, pastry chef Becky Broeske sprinkles pearl sugar onto the batter before closing the waffle iron. These sugar nuggets--a traditional element of Liège-style waffles--caramelize the waffle's outside and sweeten the inside.
The waffle appears on the restaurant's brunch menu as well, but we find it ends a dinner of oysters, pork and beer on just the right note.
The Publican, 845 W. Fulton Market; 312-733-9555 or thepublicanrestaurant.com
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