No Jive Turkey
Heritage turkeys are richer--and prettier--than the rest
With fall comes a new set of heirloom and heritage produce: apples, squash and the most colorful of the bunch, Bourbon Red turkeys.
Like heirloom tomatoes, these majestic birds have visual appeal, and the flavor is a cut above any other turkey.
Heritage breed birds have more-flavorful meat by nature and are raised in the way most conducive to maximum turkey-ness: in the pasture, eating grass, corn and whatever else they find.
Chef Paul Virant describes them as "complex; richer than any turkey I've had." At Vie, Virant brines the breast, braises the legs and uses the rest in turkey potpie (he's receiving 10 birds today; they'll be on the menu next week).
Chicago's main source for Thanksgiving is Caveny Farm in Monticello, Ill. Caveny raises about 720 Bourbon Reds annually ($6 to $12 per pound), but they've already sold out of the 18-plus-pounders. Over 600 remain available, mostly in the 6- to 10-pound and 12- to 18-pound range (you can get them smoked, too).
Order now and pick up the just-killed, flash-frozen birds at one of four locations around Chicago on November 21 or 22. Hurry: They sell out every year.
Or try Caveny's turkey at Osteria Via Stato on November 18. The restaurant is teaming up with Candid Wines for a four-course, family-style turkey and wine dinner ($65), with a roasted Bourbon Red (with focaccia-sausage stuffing) as the centerpiece (call the restaurant for reservations).
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