Smart Tart

The sweetly sour world of Flemish red ales

Flemish red. Flanders red. Belgian red. The distinctive sweet-and-sour ales of Belgium's West Flanders region go by many names. Call them what you will; we think they're some of the most refreshing beers available. And we're not the only ones taken with them: Some of the country's best beer bars, including Monk's Kettle in San Francisco and New York's Peculier Pub, champion the unique style.

Traditional Flemish reds are produced from a blend of two beers. The first is aged in oak for up to two years, while the other is fermented with wild yeasts in stainless steel tanks. The result is a complex brew that's equal parts earthy and tart, a thirst-quenching marriage of sherry and cherries. Recently, breweries in countries such as Italy and Norway have begun bottling some superb Flemish red-style beers.

With the weather getting warmer, there's no better time to go red. Look for these bottles at your local beer shop or order them from San Francisco's Healthy Spirits shop.

De Proefbrouwerij Zoetzuur ($14 for 750 ml) A mellow, balanced example of the style with bright sour-cherry flavors and gentle carbonation.

Duchesse de Bourgogne ($6 for 12 ounces) The high priestess of Flemish reds has a cult-like following. It's full-bodied and as malty-sweet as it is sour.

Panil Barriquée ($28 for 750 ml) A superlative Flemish red brewed in Italy. The beer goes through three fermentations: in stainless steel tanks, in Cognac barrels and, finally, in the bottle. The result is a multilayered brew with sherry notes and a lingering acidity that won't quit.

Ichtegem Grand Cru ($9 for 750 ml) This woody, fruity, dark-red blend of young beer and mature beer is aged in Bordeaux wine casks.

Haandbryggeriet Haandbakk ($14 for 16 ounces) The first wild-yeast sour ale produced in Norway in more than 100 years. It's musky, sweet and refreshingly sharp.

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