Until recently, natural-wine lovers pretty much had to catch a red-eye to Paris to enjoy a glass of manipulation-free Chenin Blanc or Cabernet Franc. But America is finally catching up to the Parisian natural-wine craze. Here are four spots leading the way:
San Francisco When it opened, Terroir Natural Wine Merchant and Bar immediately struck a nerve with the city's wine community as a laid-back alternative to fussier wine bars. Order a carafe from the mostly French and Italian list, or grab a bottle from the shop and pay a $12 corkage fee. On weekends, Chez Spencer parks its food truck outside so you can grab dinner and bring it back to the bar. 1116 Folsom St.; 415-558-9946 or terroirsf.com
Los Angeles Natural wine meets strip-mall chic at Hollywood's Lou on Vine. All of the 30-odd selections on owner Lou Amdur's list are available by the taste, glass or bottle. Glasses average about $10 (try the Clos Roche Blanche from Touraine), while bottles max out at $60. Look to the simple bistro menu to complement your wine, especially on Monday nights, when a three-course menu paired with five wines is just $55. 724 Vine St.; 323-962-6369 or louonvine.com
New York The city boasts several shops that peddle natural wines, but the best place to drink them is at The Ten Bells, a dark bordello that straddles Chinatown and the Lower East Side. Chalkboards listing a global selection of organic and biodynamic wines flank the bar, and while the informative staff is happy to make suggestions, it's hard to resist a glass of crisp Hofer Grüner Veltliner ($6) with briny boquerones while you dig deeper into the list. 247 Broome St.; 212-228-4450 or thetenbells.com
Detroit The Motor City rarely inspires visions of artisanal winemaking, but that didn't stop Putnam Weekley, who runs the natural-wine program at Slows Bar BQ. His list avoids traditional barbeque pairings (i.e., Zinfandel); instead, it features bottles like Francois Pinon's sparkling Vouvray ($37) or Chateau d'Oupia's blend of Carignan, Syrah and Grenache ($30) to go with Slows's excellent brisket and pulled pork. 2138 Michigan Ave.; 313-962-9828 or slowsbarbq.com
