Fresh Oink
Ibérico de Bellota hits America at last
Photo: Pablo De Loy
New members to the Cult of the Pig start with bacon (first for breakfast, then in infused bourbon). Next, they advance to pork buns and rendering their own lard.
But the most dedicated pork lovers worship at the altar of Ibérico ham, made from a special breed of Spanish pig raised on acorns (aka bellotas), wild herbs and mushrooms in the forests of southwestern Spain.
Now, Washington, D.C., chef José Andrés has unveiled a new, higher level of swine enlightenment: fresh Ibérico de Bellota pork. Like its better-known cured cousin, the meat has a velvety texture and a subtle, nutty flavor.
At his Jaleo restaurants, Andrés serves the pork in specials like roasted pork loin with apples, and salt-roasted pork loin topped with Jamón Ibérico (talk about gilding the lily).
But ambitious cooks everywhere can get the meat, too: Washington market Wagshal's is selling it (and taking phone orders at 202-363-0777) in the form of boneless and bone-in chops and loin roasts ($28 to $30 a pound) and baby back ribs for ($24 a pound).
Roast or grill the loin and chops like a good steak until they're just pink in the center, then top with a sprinkling of coarse salt and a drizzle of olive oil to experience pig nirvana.
