The Sazerac Comeback

A classic cocktail gets its due

Sure, the masses might celebrate Mardi Gras today with buckets of beer and fruity hurricanes, but the cultured, genteel drinkers will turn their lips to the classic Sazerac. Born in New Orleans around 1830, the simple though lusty elixir--brandy or rye whiskey, sugar, bitters and a hint of absinthe and lemon--is now the city's official cocktail.

Around LA, you'll find Sazeracs at Comme Ca, Ivan Kane's Cafe Was and Copa d'Oro, but at Cole's downtown, it's the house specialty. "Like Cole's, it's as classic as it gets," says bar consultant Eric Alperin. Originally made with cognac, rye whiskey became the norm when cognac production dipped; you'll find it prepared either way today. Alperin likes Landy Cognac for a sweeter version and Rittenhouse 100 rye whiskey for those who like it spicy. Laissez le bon temps rouler!

Cole's Sazerac
Makes one drink

White sugar cube
3 to 4 dashes Peychaud's Bitters
Ice
2 ounces brandy or rye
Splash of Herbsaint or absinthe
One 1-by-2-inch piece lemon, for garnish
1. Rinse a lowball glass with Herbsaint or absinthe and dump out excess.
2. In mixing glass, muddle the sugar cube and bitters. Fill glass with ice and add the brandy or rye. Stir well for 20 seconds and strain into the prepared lowball glass. Twist lemon peel over and drop it into the drink.

Cole's, the Originators of the French Dip, 118 E. 6th St., Downtown; 213-622-4090 or colesfrenchdip.com

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