Cheese Ballers

Locally made mozzarella stands up to Italy's best

Instead of importing fresh mozzarella and ricotta from Italy, Angelo Tartaglia imported an Italian cheesemaker: He and his childhood friend, Franco Russo, started making Angelo & Franco cheese in Hawthorne this April. And now it's available in specialty shops around town.

This isn't buffalo mozzarella--the milk comes from California cows, which lends a pure flavor to the cheeses--but it's just as good as any you'll find in Italy. The mozzarella balls are lightly salted and have a beautiful soft texture, not rubbery like the commercial, supermarket stuff. The silky smooth ricotta is one of the best we've tasted. A spoonful on crostini with a drizzle of honey or a dollop of olive tapenade is near perfect.

Hailing from a family of cheesemakers, Russo has been kneading and pulling fresh mozzarella since he was a young boy. The difference between then and now? Here it's made in a pristine facility near LAX, and high-tech machines do a lot of the work for him.

The cheeses retail for around $8 to $10 per container; find it at the Cheese Store of Beverly Hills, Monsieur Marcel, Bay Cities and the Curious Palate. You can also buy it direct at the factory (for half the price).

Angelo & Franco, 3441 Jack Northrup Ave., Building 14, Hawthorne; 310-263-0506 or angeloandfranco.com

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