The Art of Ludo

Chef Ludovic Lefebvre brings Ludobites back to L.A.

Last time anyone heard from Ludovic Lefebvre, he was opening a splashy new restaurant on the Las Vegas strip. But starting tomorrow night, he's back in L.A. with Ludobites, his casual guest-chef nights at Breadbar.

Before going to Lavo, the chef was known for haute French cuisine at L'Orangerie and breaking the rules at Bastide. Now his approach is more playful and slightly edgy, with dishes like braised lamb with "black curry sauce" (his own creation made of coffee, black olives, ginger and lemongrass) or miso soup with what looks like tofu but is really foie gras.

Ludobites is about quality and affordability: It's three courses for only $39. "I want people to know you don't need a trust fund to afford haute cuisine," says Lefebvre. Holding court in a casual room like Breadbar--where he can be equal parts chef, D.J. (he created the playlists) and host--is key. Those are even his colorful abstract paintings hanging on the walls.

Lefebvre, who you'll also see on Top Chef Masters on June 10, eventually wants to open his own place, but he likes the adaptability of taking this concept wherever it fits. Consider it a roving art exhibit of food.

Ludobites takes place Tuesday through Saturday nights (May 19 through August 22); make reservations online. Breadbar, 8718 W. 3rd St., Mid-City; 310-205-0124 or breadbar.net

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