Revising Riva
Small plates replace pizza at the Santa Monica restaurant
Sometimes even a successful restaurant needs a little change. After less than a year, chef Jason Travi has turned Riva from the new "it" pizza spot into an all-stuzzichini, or Italian tapas, restaurant. And it works: The lively dining room and wine bar is better than ever.
Travi's thin-crust pies are still offered Sunday through Tuesday, but now the wood-burning oven goes to work on dishes like candy-sweet Black Mission figs stuffed with gorgonzola and wrapped in salty, caramelized bacon ($10), and jumbo shrimp roasted with baby lima and cranberry beans ($14).
You'll find menu holdouts like the sea bass crudo brightened with lemon oil and pink peppercorns ($8), alongside newcomers like octopus fra diavolo ($8), a spicy stew to scoop on herbed crostini. Pastas are Travi's strong suit, but were found only at his other restaurant, Fraîche. Some, like the soft gnocchi with rich lamb Bolognese ($12), finally make an appearance here. Braised veal cheeks on a slightly sweet crostata tart ($12) and pork belly with creamy fennel puree and pickled onions ($14) are also great additions.
Desserts have been switched up, too; try the delicious milk chocolate cremux ($10), a silky custard served with coconut sorbet. But don't fret--the popular Torta della Nonna ($10) is still available.
Riva, 312 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica; 310-451-7482 or rivarestaurantla.com
