Fresh Faces
Youthful picks from a budding wine expert
Sarah Krathen may be one of the city's youngest restaurateurs, but she's no greenhorn. She secured her first restaurant job at 15 and has never looked back. Now, at 24, she and her best friend, chef Emma Hearst, have opened the LES newcomer Sorella, which specializes in approachable, affordable Italian wines that complement rich, lusty Piedmontese dishes.
Krathen runs Sorella's dining room and handles the wine list, while Hearst is responsible for the menu. The duo dreamed up their restaurant while traveling together through Northern Italy, where Krathen fell in love with the Piedmont's underdog grape, Dolcetto.
Long overshadowed by the region's famed Barolos and Barbarescos, Dolcetto offers some of the country's best values. Not nearly as sweet as its name might imply, it produces perfume-scented wines with a big, vibrant acidity and just enough tannins to stand up to hearty Italian fare. And, like Krathen, it hits its stride at a remarkably young age. Here are a few of her favorites from Sorella's list:
2006 F. Boschis Sori San Martino Dolcetto di Dogliani ($48)
This juicy Dolcetto has a particularly zippy acidity and a long, complex finish. Try it with Sorella's Pate de Fegato, an English muffin topped with chicken-liver mousse, bacon and a fried egg.
2007 Elio Altare Dolcetto d'Alba ($48)
A classic example of the Dolcetto style, this ruby-red wine has dry, modest tannins and a clean finish. Krathen pairs it with Hearst's pulled-hen-and-veal-tongue salad.
2007 Domenico Clerico Visadi Dolcetto di Langhe ($45)
Medium-bodied with lush fruit and toasty notes, this wine's ample tannins hold up well to braised meats, like Sorella's short ribs.
Sorella, 95 Allen St. (between Delancey and Broome sts.); 212-274-9595 or sorellanyc.com
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