Who's Hungary?
A classic dessert grape goes dry
Chances are if you've had a wine made from the Furmint grape, it's been sweet. For centuries, Furmint (FOOR-mint) has played a starring role in Hungary's famously sticky Tokaji dessert wines. But a sophisticated dry style, made from the very same grape, is what's turning heads now.
Here's what's to like: Dry Furmint comes in a range of styles, from crisp and fruity to complex and concentrated, but the best bottles have a core of acidity and minerality that makes for exciting wines. For reference, comparisons jump all over the map, from dry Chenin Blancs and White Burgundies to German Rieslings and Vouvrays. But to really do the style justice, you have to try it for yourself.
And there's no time like the present to get acquainted. The fuller-bodied style of dry Furmint is a natural choice for late spring, when the nighttime temperature still calls for a sweater. Here are four producers to seek out:
2006 Kiralyudvar Tokaji Sec ($22) A lemon-colored blend of Furmint and Hárslevelü (a native Hungarian grape), it offers a spirited, fruity style, with notes of ripe pineapple (chambersstwines.com).
2006 Zoltán Demeter Furmint Tokaji Kakas ($7.50 a glass; $58 a bottle) This elegant single-vineyard bottling has lemony aromas that give way to vibrant minerality and a ringing finish. Available at Hearth, 403 E. 12th Street (at First Ave.); restauranthearth.com
2005 Dobogó Furmint Tokaji ($28) This rich wine is partially fermented in new oak barrels, which helps notes of vanilla and peach stand out (astorwines.com).
2006 Heidi Schröck Furmint ($28) This version of Furmint from Austria is juicy with apple and floral notes and a spicy finish (unionsquarewines.com).
