Partners in Wine
Italian blends match the durable with the delicate
Penn and Teller, Laurel and Hardy, Axl and Slash: Some of the best duos pair a boisterous front man with a subdued (but essential) deputy.
The same goes for wine--especially in Italy, where winemakers have long married muscular grapes with more delicate varieties to produce their signature blends.
And now's the time to discover them: These two-grape red blends are great dinner companions, especially as we make the transition from sultry to cool weather. Here are three favorites:
Alto Adige In Italy's northernmost region, the Santa Maddalena DOC (aka St. Magdalener) is known for light-bodied reds made from native Schiavia grapes. Tradition (and law) allows the blend to contain a healthy dose of Lagrein--a local grape with powerful tannins--lending some brawn to the blend. One to Try: 2006 Niedermayr Santa Maddalena Classico ($15 at De-Vino).
Campania This region near Naples is home to many indigenous grapes. But two--the inky Aglianico and obscure Piedirosso--come together particularly harmoniously. One to Try: 2005 Villa Matilde Falerno del Massico Rosso ($27 at Columbia Wine Co.).
Sicily At the other end of Italy, winemakers are tinkering with their star grape, Nero d'Avola--an earthy, fruit-packed red increasingly made in the New World style. The addition of Frappato, a delicately fragrant local grape, produces a deliciously layered and versatile wine. One to Try: 2004 Valle dell'Acate Cerasuolo di Vittoria ($23 at De-Vino).
