Fri. 16 Jan '09
Winter Whites
Crisp Torrontes is a great match for brisk weather
Though the temperature outside is frightful, don't pack your white wines away with your flip-flops just yet. Some whites make for excellent winter drinking: Our favorite is Torrontes, which is quickly making a name for itself at wine shops and on restaurant wine lists.
Once you taste it, you'll realize why this Argentinean variety appeals to even the "I only drink red in winter" crowd. Considering the grape's relation to the highly aromatic Muscat, its heady rose and tropical fruit aromas aren't surprising. What is unexpected in this medium-bodied wine is its deep, spicy flavors, creamy texture and bone-dry finish, which makes it a great foil for warm winter dishes, especially Indian and Thai cuisine (even takeout).
At wine shops and restaurants, seek out the names Astica, Santa Julia, Michael Torino and Crios—all are top Torrontes producers. Here's a list to get you through the winter:
2008 Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontes ($15) Crios sets the standard for a complex Torrontes: It's superfragrant with a luscious texture and a crisp finish (astorwines.com).
2008 Yellow+Blue Torrontes ($12) The producer famous for its eco-friendly packaging has added this lively, fresh Torrontes to its lineup of organic wines (astorwines.com).
2006 Sur De Los Andes Torrontes ($9 glass/$32 bottle) This value-priced bottle packs in big apricot and orange-blossom flavors. Available at Pasita restaurant, 47 Eighth Ave. (between Jane and Horatio sts.); 212-255-3900 or pasitanyc.com
2007 Bodega Colome Torrontes ($9 glass/$35 bottle) Seriously aromatic, the lush peach flavors in this bottling balance its crisp citrus fruit. Available at Plataforma Churrascaria restaurant, 316 W. 49th St. (between Eighth and Ninth aves.); 212-245-0505 or churrascariaplataforma.com