TT Leftovers: December Edition

A roundup of the whirlwind month's finest

TastingTable SF Ironside's Cubano | Beige rice | Kasa's shulgum

December is always a blur of crowds, cocktails and family gatherings. So as you prepare for the imminent New Year, here's a look back at the highlights of the month that got away:

• The city's best new Cubano racked up a lot of air miles to get here. Ironside's chef, Bob Cina, first perfected the crusty, cheesy paragon while running the kitchen at Boston's Chez Henri. Now it's all ours--but only at lunch.

• The man behind the refreshing beer lists at Starbelly and Delarosa, Rich Higgins, knows his suds. And because winter sings for beer, Higgins put together a list of perfectly seasonal bottles for festive--and everyday--occasions.

• When it comes to rice, beige is the new brown. The partially milled grains grown for Nijiya Market have the tenderness of white and the earthiness of brown. It's a superb exercise in edible compromise.

• Bubbles are an effervescent given for the holidays. This year, Italian sparklers are popping off across the Bay Area...and we don't mean Prosecco. These are delicious wines from comparatively unknown regions--with cut-rate prices to match.

Tikka masala has its place. But at the two branches of the casual Indian restaurant Kasa, our spice radar pings for shulgum. The homey Punjabi dish uses a winter staple, turnips, in a deliriously fresh way. Plus, we secured the recipe.

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