1 tablespoon untoasted sesame oil or grapeseed oil
1 cup hickory or oak wood chips
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons mirin (Japanese rice wine)
One ½-inch piece fresh ginger, scraped and grated
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
1 scallion, trimmed and thinly sliced
Directions
Fill a large bowl with ice and water and set aside. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the soba noodles and cook according to the package instructions until just tender, about 6 minutes. Drain and transfer the soba noodles to the ice water until chilled, then drain and toss with the oil.
In a heavy-bottomed pot, add the wood chips and place over high heat. Once they become fragrant, about 2 minutes, cover the pot and let the smoke accumulate for 5 minutes. Uncover the pot and place a steamer basket over the wood chips. Turn the noodles out into the steamer basket, cover and smoke for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, mirin and grated ginger.
In a small skillet set over medium heat, toast the sesame seeds, shaking the pan often, until golden and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a small plate.
Uncover the pot and use tongs to transfer the noodles to the bowl with the soy-sauce mixture. Toss to coat, then add the sesame seeds and scallions, toss again and serve.