The mother sauces of French cuisine — béchamel, velouté, espagnole, tomate, and hollandaise — are a fundamental part of countless recipes, not to mention all of these sauces make great bases for variations. Velouté sauce is the foundation of the delectable, wine-scented Bercy sauce, which is a revelation when paired with fish.

Named after one of Paris' most stunning districts revered for its wine markets, Bercy sauce adds a splash of wine and a few shallots to a velouté made with roux and stock. To make it, brown butter and shallots in a saucepan, whisk in equal amounts of dry white wine and fish stock, then simmer the mixture until the liquid is reduced by half.

Meanwhile, make a fish velouté with fish stock instead of the traditional veal, add it to the wine mixture, bring it to a boil, then reduce the heat and add fresh herbs like parsley. Bercy can be coupled with baked sole, seared salmon, crab legs, shellfish, and more, adding a richly savory yet mildly tangy counterpoint to the meaty fish.