Simon Says Eat

A coffee shop with amazing food--or a restaurant with amazing coffee?

You'd be forgiven for thinking Simon Sips is just another great East Village coffee shop: After all, owner Simon Mammon ruled Midtown's java scene for 11 years with his Bryant Park coffee kiosk. But his new venture has much, much more to offer than just perfectly pulled espresso.

Mammon has overhauled the miniscule Tasting Room Café space with modernist light fixtures and a glass-encased overhead wine cellar. Consulting chef Ronna Welsh has designed a menu of seasonal, Mediterranean-leaning small plates, all under $8. You could easily spend an entire day here, starting with a strong cup of coffee (made with Counter Culture beans) and dense date-walnut bread. For lunch, there are tidy sandwiches made with Sullivan Street Bakery ciabatta rolls; try the Italian tuna salad, assertively flavored with parsley, garlic, olive oil and lemon. As the sun dips lower, recharge with an expertly made cappuccino (note the delicate foam flower) and a slice of the tender double-cream cake.

The dinner menu has plenty of winners, but don't miss the chopped chicken liver, made from Mammon's 100-year-old family recipe. The short wine list is equally economical ($6 to $12 a glass), and there's Sixpoint, Chimay, Ommegang and Blue Point on tap. If you can't score one of the four tables, don't worry: The squishy stools along the front window are an ideal spot.

Simon Sips, 72 E. First St. (between First and Second aves.); 212-388-0614 or simonsips.com

TASTING TABLE KNOWS THE CITY'S BEST TABLES–FROM NEW RESTAURANTS TO OLD FAVORITES. LET US ORDER FOR YOU–IT'S FREE.