Is Deli Meat Without Nitrates Actually Better For You?

Have you heard of nitrates? You should have; these molecules led to a link between charcuterie and cancer. After hearing those horror stories, the knee-jerk response is to avoid nitrate-containing deli meats. But, to dig deeper, Tasting Table caught up with Michelle Wallace, the renowned pitmaster, TV personality, and owner and founder of B'tween Sandwich Co. to provide some insight. "Yes, ultimately, it is better to avoid deli meat with added nitrates," she says. "These items will have a more cleaner and natural flavor to them." 

Wallace's Instagram is full of southern cooking tips, and by her books, these meats don't deserve a place on your plate. "The deal with nitrates is to ultimately create a product that can safely last longer on the shelf," Wallace elaborates. "Nitrates are used to inhibit the growth of harmful bacteria and help to prevent spoilage." The molecules play an important role in protecting consumers from bacteria like clostridium botulinum, but that shelf-life extension comes at a cost.

Bizarrely, nitrates are a simple mixture of nitrogen and oxygen. And when found naturally in antioxidant-rich foods like spinach, these are actually healthy, breaking down into circulation-boosting nitric oxide. It's only when broken down without the presence of antioxidants (eg, in our bodies) that these molecules create cancer-causing nitrosamines instead. In other words, deli meat without nitrates is probably better for you.

Yes, it's best to avoid nitrates in processed meats, but sometimes, that's easier said than done. When artificially inserted, they create a health risk you'd be smart to avoid. Unfortunately, though, there is a second issue: Technically, there is no such thing as "nitrate-free meat."Any meats labeled as such indirectly incorporate nitrates through ingredients that naturally contain them, like celery juice. Chew it for a few seconds? Saliva prompts a harmful conversion into nitrosamines, and you're back to square one. Consumer Reports found almost identical chemical levels in these products, proving that nitrate-free deli meat is no healthier for consumers. 

Avoiding these molecules is difficult, and ultimately, processed meat is notoriously riddled with chemicals; it's what you should know before buying nitrate-free bacon or salami. Frustrating, isn't it? The better approach is to limit intake of processed products entirely. Increasing consumption of whole grains while decreasing intake of red and processed meat is linked to a considerable extension of lifespan. And in scenarios when that's not possible? Be conscious of what meat types you purchase; poultry and freshly cut options contain fewer nitrates overall. Interestingly, while red meat is notoriously high-risk, ham is another of the worst culprits: skip this meat if you're concerned about nitrates. 

A balanced diet is also key. It's not just about whether you avoid deli meats; how else are you supporting your health? Invest in counteracting nitrate exposure by consuming antioxidant-rich foods like blueberries, pinto beans, and cranberries.