Spice Bomb
Daniel Humm discovers a new secret weapon
Even the country's best chefs--like Daniel Humm of New York's Eleven Madison Park--are always on the lookout for new ways to flavor their food. Humm's latest discovery is an amped-up version of that old kitchen staple, curry powder.
Called vadouvan, this French interpretation of Indian curry powder is a fragrant paste made from fried shallots, onions and garlic mixed with fenugreek, curry leaves, mustard seeds and chiles. Some chefs add their additional spices, such as cloves, cardamom and nutmeg.
At Eleven Madison, Humm loves combining surprising ingredients with pristine French preparations, and vadouvan is his latest secret weapon. He dusts lobster with a crumbly vadouvan "granola" and uses it to flavor a dish of lamb, eggplant and sheep's-milk yogurt.
At home, Humm advises cooks to use this intense spice blend sparingly. "You can infuse a sauce or soup with vadouvan and then strain it out, or you can sprinkle it on top to finish a dish," he says.
Try making your own vadouvan at home (here's a great recipe) or buy a freshly made batch from Le Sanctuaire, a San Francisco-based specialty store.
Eleven Madison Park, 11 Madison Ave. (between 24th and 25th sts.), New York; 212-889-0905 or elevenmadisonpark.com
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