Pork Fight!

The meat from Bev Eggleston's pigs has elicited love songs from New Yorkers--chefs and nonchefs alike--for quite some time.

But recently, only the former group had access to the storied swine, and would-be home cooks could only get a taste at restaurants like Momofuku, Gramercy Tavern, Back Forty and Craft.

Well chefs, the jig is up: Marlow & Daughters recently began carrying this cult product. The rich, fatty meat, known for its distinctive flavor and sustainable cultivation, is now available for house calls.

There's one catch: Eggleston delivers only one pig a week, and it's divided between the shop's customers and the Marlow & Sons kitchen.

You can bet that Marlow's chefs are putting up a fight: "We had to hide it from the restaurant so we could save it for our customers," said Andrew Dorsey, one of the store's butchers.

Marlow sells the pigs--which are either farmer's cross or heirloom Ossabaw breeds--in a variety of cuts, like shoulder ($9 a pound) and bone-in pork chops ($17 a pound). Recently, one particularly fatty specimen was turned into prosciutto cotto. Any part of Eggleston's pigs is fair game...it's just a matter of who gets to it first.

Marlow & Daughters, 95 Broadway (at Berry St.), Brooklyn; 718-388-5700 or marlowanddaughters.com