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Why Is Panettone So Expensive Now, And Is It Worth The Splurge?

Every year, Costco offers a popular Christmas treat months ahead of the holiday season, often even before Halloween: It's panettone, an Italian bread-cake hybrid with more than one Hallmark-worthy origin story. You can find 2.2 pounds of this treat in a vibrant red box (Madi Gran Panettone) for under $12 at Costco.

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On the other end of the spending spectrum, panettoni are becoming increasingly expensive every year. For those with bougie palates and cash to burn, you can find artisan panettoni that cost over $100. But are they worth the splurge? Chef Roy Shvartzapel, creater of From Roy panettone bakery, would argue yes. Handcrafting his artisanal panettoni, which cost $102 per box, is all about quality-control, patience, and premium ingredients. Traditionally, it takes about 24 hours to make panettone from start to finish. Roy's panettoni baking process take 40 hours. 

His flavors include tiramisu, candied orange raisin, and chocolate. When these panettoni were $95 each, I ordered one out of curiosity. Upon sharing it with friends, one said, "Tastes like the ones from Costco." Whether they were referring to the Madi Gran Panettone or the DeMilan Panettone that you can buy at Costco for $26.99 a tin, we did not ask. The DeMilan Panettone, according to its manufacturer, is also handcrafted and slowly baked using the authentic traditions of Milanese panettone makers. In Italy, there are strict rules about how to make a panettone; they must be made with live yeast, have zero preservatives, hydrogenated fats, or ingredients made from genetically modified organisms (GMOs). However, panettoni made outside Italy don't have to adhere to these instructions.

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Make panettone at home to appreciate why they're expensive

Roy Shvartzapel is not the only one selling spendy panettoni. While not as expensive as From Roy's and having less of a cult following, Ofner Americas sells its own gourmet versions, like crème brûlée or pistachio cream; you can buy an Ofner chocolate mousse-filled panettone from Amazon for just over $40. Along with creamy chocolate filling, this panettone has a chocolate shell on top. 

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If you love imported food and value authenticity, you can also order panettoni that are made in Italy. Fiasconaro sells a classic and tradtional panettone for $39.99 on Amazon and it comes directly from Italy, wrapped in a red bow. 

Of course, you can always roll up your sleeves and try making panettone from scratch at home. Tasting Table's recipe developer, Stephanie Rapone, has the perfect Italian panettone recipe for you. Additionally, we have six tips from a pastry chef for making the fluffiest panettone. Making this Italian bread-cake delicacy from scratch might just help you appreciate why panettoni can be expensive now. For, as well as the long and complex baking instructions, the finished sweet bread must be hung upside-down for two hours after baking to cool while protecting that domed shape. This might just inspire you to run to Costco for the more affordable options instead.

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