What Sets New England And New York Pastrami Apart?
These days, you can find high-quality pastrami sandwiches all across the U.S. In fact, some of our favorites come from Langer's Delicatessen in Los Angeles, Slyman's Restaurant in Cleveland, and Kush by Stephens in Miami. And yet, the most iconic locations associated with pastrami are New York and New England. Originally, of course, Jewish immigrants created the NYC pastrami sandwiches that are still served today in Katz's Delicatessen. The first-ever version in the U.S. can be credited to a Romanian immigrant named Sussman Volk.
Today, however, the original sandwich has morphed quite a bit. If you venture to New York and New England, you'll generally find two different types of pastrami. Color is the easiest way to distinguish them at first glance, as the former has a black tinge, while the latter has a signature bright red color. But beyond the outside appearances, these differing hues are indicative of separate ingredients used in New York vs. New England pastrami. This also means that each one will have a slightly distinct flavor, but you'll also see different cuts of beef used for each type as well.
New England pastrami gets its signature hue from paprika
In general, pastrami is brined and cured beef that's eventually smoked and then boiled or steamed. But as we mentioned, New England pastrami takes on a distinct flavor, largely because of the ingredients it's made with. This isn't the original style of pastrami in the U.S., as the New York version was the first of its kind here. But this meat has gone through several adaptations over the years (including a version in Texas), and New Englanders started to favor a type made from the plate primal. This cut can be found underneath a cow's ribs and boasts a high amount of fat.
But the real distinction between New England and New York pastrami is in the coloring. The former is coated with a rub of paprika (which is where the ruby hue comes from), coriander, and potentially other spices like black pepper. Its flavor is a combination of smoky, slightly spicy, and a little sweet (as brown sugar is often added as well). Before these spices get deployed, the meat is typically brined for up to 12 days, at which point it's rubbed with seasonings and cooked. If you're buying this pastrami from a store or ordering it in a restaurant, it will generally be smoked, but it's also possible to bake it at home in the oven.
New York pastrami gets its dark edges from black pepper and molasses
Black pastrami (or New York pastrami) originally came from a Romanian immigrant. But to get more specific, it derives from the dried and salt-cured dish pastirma, which goes all the way back to the days of the Ottoman Turks. While pastirma was first made with mutton, goat, or beef, it eventually traveled to Romania and morphed into a delicacy made from geese. That later became beef once pastrami took over New York City, and it's possible that the name switched from "pastirma" to "pastrami" because the latter rhymes with its next-door neighbor on U.S. store shelves: salami.
While New England pastrami gets its red hue primarily from paprika, New York pastrami derives its black border from black pepper and molasses. However, you may also see it with garlic and coriander. Because of this molasses infusion, New York pastrami may turn out a bit sweeter than its New England counterpart. It can be made from a few different cuts of beef, including the navel and first cut, and it's wet brined and smoked as well. You'll be able to tell if you're eating this red or black meat right off the bat, since slices of the latter boast their classic dark edges.