Mushroom & Gruyere Sandwiches | Washington D.C.

There are plenty of great vegetarian sandwiches out there, but Central's strapping mushroom sandwich puts the meatiest of subs to shame.

With the texture and richness of a patty melt, Central's new grilled mushroom and cheese ($15) is not a big sandwich. Nonetheless, its quartered wedges are deceptively dense.

Chef Michel Richard conceived of the sandwich as a vegetarian answer to France's croque monsieur. For smoothness and bite, Central's executive chef Arthur Cavaliere creates a duxelles of chopped cremini and shiitake mushrooms roasted with Vidalia onions and garlic. To create patty-like slices, he packs the mushroom blend into a terrine pan and bakes it.

Cavaliere layers the duxelles with Gruyère cheese on house-made, buttered Pullman bread, then press-grills the sandwich and cuts it into four wedges. The order arrives on a cheese board with a heap of crisp fries and a peppery, four-cheese béchamel, for dipping.

Attention, Central burger loyalists: the mushroom sandwich has arrived.

Central Michel Richard, 1001 Pennsylvania Ave. NW (at 11th St.); 202-626-0015 or centralmichelrichard.com