Telegraph Wine Bar | Logan Square, Chicago

Logan Square wine bar Telegraph is our standard destination for unusual, interesting by-the-glass offerings.

This time of year, though, we turn to Telegraph's wine director, Jeremy Quinn, for full bottles with body and gusto. For his winter list, he wanted "heartwarming wines that bring the blood up and are full-bodied without being heavy," he says.

He details a few of his favorites below. To eat, we highly recommend Telegraph's toasted bread topped with grilled foie gras, duck confit, tart local apples and black-walnut relish (pictured; $15).

2012 Cos Pithos ($60 for 750ml): Quinn found this amphora-aged wine on a recent trip to Sicily. "It's succulent yet not sweet, like a dry honey. It's a comfort white that warms you like a fireplace."

2010 Maxime Laurent Il Fait Soif ($60 for 750ml): The biodynamic, family-run Rhône vineyard is one of Quinn's favorites. "It's a Grenache that's raw...like biting into a piece of raw meat."

2008 Rossese di Dolceacqua ($55 for 750ml): "This is my favorite red of all year," says Quinn. Coming from Liguria, the naturally made wine "has the chocolate-cherry thing at the start, but turns into black walnut, cumin and tamarind," and Telegraph is the only restaurant in Chicago to carry it.

Telegraph, 2601 N. Milwaukee Ave.; 773-292-9463 or telegraphwinebar.com