Los Angeles' A-Frame All-You-Can-Eat Fried Chicken

A-Frame's all-you-can-eat fried chicken

There is no standard unit for an order of fried chicken.

Depending on where you're dining, you might end up with a bucket, a platter or a plate of battered bird. Anatomy could dictate your order, too: a half or whole bird; a profusion of wings.

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Roy Choi thinks of fried chicken in two-piece units, a drumstick and a thigh, and he sees those two joints multiplying and stretching into infinity. Either infinity, or until 3 p.m., when A-Frame stops serving its new weekend-only, all-you-can-eat fried-chicken "picnics" (pictured; $18).

Fried to the nutty side of golden-brown, Choi's chicken has an impressive shell. The meat, which is cooked sous-vide before being battered and dipped in a hot oil bath, drips with juices, and has a slight buttermilk tang.

While you're working on that second piece, a server will swing by and ask if you'd like another order. Say "yes" at least once, because it's a beautiful moment, having another two pieces of fried meat set in front of you, the promise of another pair on the horizon.

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Even with the tangy tonkatsu and creamy lemongrass dipping sauces, coleslaw threaded with zucchini, and sweet-potato salad, the meal isn't complete: The bottomless glass of Hite ($10) completes the picture.

A-Frame, 12565 Washington Blvd., Culver City; 310-398-7700 or aframela.com

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