Fritzi's - A Dog For Everyone - L.A.

Pink's. Dodger Dogs. Oki Dog. Bacon-wrapped hot dogs.

Los Angeles is as much of a hot dog town as it is a taco town. The smell of pork-wrapped franks browning on tinfoil-wrapped baking sheets is the nighttime perfume of the city.

Neal Fraser has filtered that collective love for the snap of a good dog in creating the menu at Fritzi Dog, a new addition to the Original Farmers' Market.

With five different tubed meats to choose from, four different buns, and an array of toppings and sauces that run the gamut from traditional (sauerkraut, deli mustard) to contemporary (Sriracha ketchup, violet mustard), there's a dog here for just about everyone.

But if the prospect of mixing and matching (or of violet mustard streaking an all-beef frank) troubles you, the combinations Fraser has on the menu won't do you wrong.

We were pleasantly surprised by the meatiness of the Bird Dog ($6.25), made from a mixture of duck and turkey meat. It seemed far more at home in a brioche roll, topped with caramelized onions and peppers, than any chicken link we've encountered. And the relish- and ketchup-smeared all-beef Stadium Dog ($6.25), served on a pretzel roll, hits the right nostalgic notes.

Fritzi Dog, 6333 W. 3rd St., Mid-City; 310-555-5500 or fritzidog.com