Taylor's Steakhouse, An L.A. Classic

They don't make steakhouses like Taylor's anymore.

A relic of the era of the two-martini lunch, this Koreatown restaurant has survived and thrived for six-plus decades, with its dark wood, Naugahyde booths and mellow jazz on the speakers intact.

Though it's not L.A.'s only beef-focused landmark to have passed the test of time, Taylor's is the one historic establishment whose bargain prices have remained as nostalgic as the décor.

Surprisingly affordable slabs of steer are skillfully cooked and presented without fuss: pink rounds of prime rib ($27) with horseradish cream; dry-aged culotte steak ($30); and filet mignon ($25) smothered in sweet onions.

The top prize for value, though, might go to the robust Kansas City sirloin ($23). Flame-broiled with a slightly charred crust, it arrives ruby red, decadently juicy and topped with a pat of herbed butter.

Potent garlic bread ($4), asparagus drenched in Hollandaise ($7), or cream-whipped mashed potatoes ($4) are all solid accompaniments. The chilled shrimp cocktail ($15), served with a flourish in glass stemware, is a sight to behold. No less important: The bartenders know how to stir a fine Manhattan.

Sink into the dining room at Taylor's for a taste of the good old days. Fortunately, you don't need an expense account to do so.