Doughnut Dolly

Hannah Hoffman doesn't offer raised glazed, Dutch crumb or chocolate-dipped rings crusted in sprinkles. Her yeasted doughnut is plump, sugar-covered, and so light it dents with every touch. Even more appealing, she fills each one to order. Some get INNA jams; some her signature "naughty cream," a lightly tart crème fraîche pastry cream. Much better than any old Bismarck.