Los Tacos No. 1 In Chelsea Market

Los Tacos No. 1 has electrifying food.

If you want to be steamrolled by flavor, look to the new stand at Chelsea Market.

Opened by three West Coast boys (two from Brawley, California; one from Tijuana), Los Tacos No. 1 is the trio's vibrant answer to the age-old East Coast quandary, "Where the tacos at?"

They are here in supremely good form, on tortillas made from scratch. Choose corn over flour then decide between carne asada ($3.50), pollo asado ($3), nopales ($2.50) and the Northern Mexican version of al pastor, called adobada ($3). Every order is like a taco party: Walk along the counter to spoon green onions here, a charred jalapeño there and thick habanero-peanut salsa everywhere.

There are also mulas ($4 to $4.50), beautiful quesadilla Frankensteins, with two flour tortillas sandwiching a cheese center. No order is complete, though, without an especial ($4), a craggy, deep-fried quesadilla.

But in truth, everything here is especial.