Olives, like cilantro and sweetbreads, are one of those polarizing foods: Some people can't get enough; others avoid them at all costs. But Castelvetrano, a little-known olive variety that is popping up all over the city, will convert even professed haters.
Thanks to their intense green hue, these glossy, oval-shaped olives are easy to spot. Chefs are obsessed with them and, once you taste them, you'll understand why. Picked young and cured with less salt than other olives, they have a smooth, buttery texture and a mild, clean taste.
Convivio chef Michael White loves them because they remind him of the fresh olives he's eaten in Italy. "So many Americans are used to bad olives," he says. "They're too acidic, too vinegary; these are fresh and meaty." At Convivio, White warms them in olive oil and seasons them lightly with rosemary, chile flakes and garlic. You can also find them at the appetizer-centric Bar Stuzzichini and at Smith's, where they're marinated in a blend of lemon zest, garlic and fennel seeds.
Few NYC shops carry Castelvetranos, though you can usually find them at Buon Italia. You can also order them online from dibruno.com. You'll want to stock up for your next happy hour: Not only are these olives an addictive snack, but they're also perfect in gin martinis.
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