The 14 Biggest Trends In The Paris Food Scene For 2023
Despite its popularity with American audiences, most of the Parisian dining takes place far beyond the reach of the Netflix popular and highly binge-able "Emily in Paris." Just like there would never be a world where the lead character's early-career salary could afford a wardrobe so large, no statement piece is ever worn twice.
Much like the rest of the world, the Parisian food scene came to an abrupt halt during the COVID-19 pandemic. As diners and chefs now return to restaurants, appetites have changed to reflect a world in its current state. It is a world that demands greater financial accessibility due to rising living costs; one which has thrown out the rule book; one which relies on the strength and company of its community; and one which demands sustainable systems.
Though there might always be an edge to Parisian style, an embracement of the classics, and je ne sais quoi that makes the city and its dwellers muse for the American market and all of its 'French girl chic' fodder, below the surface is a city full of highly creative people, looking for ways both new and old to make things delicious and beautiful. Here are some of Paris's current and predicted food trends this year.
Sustainability
Given *sweeping gesture* everything, it's no wonder the food industry around the globe and in Paris has its focus set on sustainable practices. According to Eit Food, sustainable systems that incorporate waste reduction into their daily routines are at the top of the list for European food trends predicted for 2023. Not only does this include food, but it also includes a drink; even Champagnes like Moët Hennessy are allocating significant funds towards improving their sustainability practices by creating research centers dedicated to the practice, (via Ethos).
Even the likes of cheese making are being considered, with vegan cheeses that go beyond a heavy reliance on corn start and coconut fats on the rise, with French producer Les Nouveaux Affineurs leading the way. We should expect to see more of these innovations across retail and restaurant spaces in Paris, a city known for having its fingers on the pulse of the latest and chicest food trends and innovations.
These trends will likely show up in the coolest ways at the annual We Love Green festival in Paris this summer.
Artistic, plant-forward food
While there will always be a space for butter, eggs, and cream in Parisian dining, there are also an increasing number of chefs and pâtisseries focusing on vegan, plant-based approaches that refuse to sacrifice substance or style to achieve their goal.
The plant-forward movement is extending itself to the ubiquitous French croissant and other classic pâtisserie favorites, with an increased dedication to artistry and creativity needed to achieve equally popular results to appease all customers, not just plant-eating ones. Key players in this trend include Land & Monkeys and Dwitch & Glace, a sandwich shop wowing customers with their arts-and-nature-inspired, bright, vegetable-focused creations.
Veg News also reports that even the likes of Alan Ducasse are turning their efforts to that which comes from the ground. The well-respected chef led the opening of Sapid in 2021, a concept that included an increased dedication to vegetable-forward, sustainable sourcing. Ducasse is also responsible for the recent vegan burger pop-up Burgal.
Given the breadth of chefs taking on the task of bringing beautiful plant-based foods for chic and discerning Parisians, coupled with E.U. policies around sustainability, it seems likely that this trend will only be gaining traction in 2023.
Food trucks and street food
Food trucks and street food are not exactly new or revolutionary. However, carrying on from the street-level stalls, food trucks, a New York City-based tradition, do seem to be making waves and taking names in the Parisian food scene.
According to Paris La Defence, you can find several of these trucks in one spot, as is the trend in other areas, including NYC, LA, and London. For those skeptical of how the food truck scene might affect your favorite cafe or bistro, a study shows the two kinds of eateries are able to exist harmoniously, with food trucks possibly even helping stoke growth within the food industry overall.
We recommend visitors seek out several trucks, slinging some of the finest food in town, including Le Camion Qui Fume (or the smoking truck), known for the epic burgers (seriously, they are legendary) and classic yet elevated flavors.
Food courts
Perhaps it is a natural response to all the gatherings we weren't able to do over the last few years or the rising costs and prohibitive expense now required to eat out. Whatever the reason, casual dining, including communal tables, food halls, pop-ups, markets, and courts, is on the rise across Europe.
It's just as well that the food court trend is taking off as Paris prepares itself to open the largest food court in the providence. According to Sortir A Paris, the anticipated opening will occur sometime in September 2023 in the northern Paris suburb of Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine. The new food court is projected to be open seven days a week from morning until night.
Until it opens, however, there are plenty of food court-related alternatives and options to keep you going. From the newest addition of Food Society to the Iconic, a left bank location that began life as a pop-up and reports to keeping the party going until the early hours (via Visit Paris Region).
Increasing insects on the menu
Entomophagy, the practice of insect eating, has been on the rise across Europe ever since regulations expanded and the European Food Safety Agency began allowing various approved insects into food production policies, (via IPIFF). The practice of insect eating isn't new; it's practiced widely across South East Asia, Mexico, New Zealand, and elsewhere. Now being incorporated into flours, protein bars, and restaurant menus in Europe, this is no 'fly in my soup' situation. Instead, it's a step in the right direction toward increasing options for sustainable protein sources.
Chef Laurent Veyet thinks insects make for exciting and flavorful ingredients. Such ingredients should be considered in everything, including fine dining. Veyet combines a variety of insects with classic French techniques at his popular restaurant Inoveat, including a seven-course tasting menu. He tells The National News, "You have to find the right flavors, the right accompaniments. All that is fascinating, any chef will tell you the same."
With Europe's focus on sustainability and protein alternatives, we'll likely see more insect incorporation across Parisian food outlets and products in 2023.
The rise of non-alcoholic drinks
You might be surprised to hear that France, known in part for their wine production and consumption, has not only jumped on the alcohol-free bandwagon but is also quickly championing the movement with accelerated sales and a thirst for booze-free alternatives, according to The Guardian. Paris is now home to the country's first alcohol-free wine cellar in the city's northern area, with many others turning their perfected wine-making skills into a new venture. The country's first alcohol-free wine shop's owner is Augustin Laborde. He tells the Guardian it's not just about being sober but a "new kind of flexibility of thinking."
According to Reuters, two things are currently happening across France: Wine consumption is on a downward trend, while alternative drinks sales are increasing simultaneously, creating what appears to be a prime time to introduce more alcohol-free alternatives into the French market.
Martha Wright, a wine professional and, almost paradoxically, sobriety coach, tells Forbes that moderation is considered one of France's top cultural values, with a general distaste for public intoxication. Given this value alongside other cultural values, including cuisine and art, it was just a matter of time before alcohol-free drinks became an untapped market and creative venture ripe for exploration and innovation. Wright pegs mixologist Margot Combat as one to watch within the N.A. scene, known for her rule-breaking attitude and creativity.
Technology plays a more prominent part
Fancy vending machines and technology run-kiosks were once considered so rare they could only be found in cities of the future, like technology-leading Tokyo. Thanks in part to increased access and the pressure from the pandemic to minimize social interaction in the interest of safety, more tech-forward systems are appearing everywhere, from Q.R. code-based ordering at restaurants to ordering kiosks at your nearest McDonald's, (via 1851 Franchise). Not only has the technology helped reduce person-to-person interaction, but it has also helped in an industry that has recently experienced staff shortages while simultaneously providing customers with less time pressure to order, resulting in more significant spending, (per Nation's Restaurant News).
With Nexxworks calling Paris a rising global tech hub, including contactless payment and ordering systems like kiosks and Q.R. codes as a top restaurant trend in France, you can pretty much guarantee that more establishments around Paris will be turning to technology to maximize workforce, but also customer intake, given the growing trends of more extensive eating opportunities like food courts.
Multicultural cuisines and collaborations
It should not be news to anyone that in such a globally-diverse city as Paris, there will be many examples of where two (or more!) cultures have intertwined to form a unique new expression that reflects their overlaps. While they are having a moment in the Parisian food scene, they were always there. Now, there may be more cravings and acceptance by the public in the wake of the isolation years brought about by COVID-19.
Le Servan is one such establishment whose menu creates a narrative that showcases multiple cultural influences of chef and co-owner Tatiana Levha and her co-owner sister and sommelier Katia Levha, including their Filipina and French family history, including Comte-stuffed deep-fried bao, Morteau sausage with crispy rice and more.
Chef proprietor of Alleno Paris, Yannick Alléno, notes that French cuisine has always had international influences and attempted to absorb them into its own. At a 2019 conference that discussed projections for the future of French cuisine, Alleno said, "I believe it is thanks to this exchange that French cuisine is so culturally rich and why it has had this extraordinary evolution," (via 50 Best).
While this international influence might have always been there, it feels like there is more room to celebrate the mixture between French and non-French cuisine without the pressures driven by words like "authentic," which prevented more of these overlaps in the past.
Unique museum restaurants gain traction
We've likely all been there before, longing for a pick-me-up snack or substantial meal after strolling through a museum for who knows how many hours. With a captive audience, museums can charge whatever they please, even when offering a lackluster menu. Museums in Paris are eschewing this standard, with restaurants providing museum-goers a second reason to visit.
Restaurants like Forest, led by chef Julien Sebbag and art director Dorion, housed inside the Modern Museum of Art, provide inspired, styled dishes with influences from the chef's training in Tel Aviv and Parisian ingredients, alongside views of the iconic Eiffel Tower and the Seine.
Grains is the destination for those looking to explore all things that grow from the earth. Located on the third floor of the Bourse de Commerce-Pinault Collection, chefs Michael and Sebastian center their menu around products like amaranth, spelt, and kasha. So unique one might even say the restaurant is what draws visitors in, and the collection makes for a delicious dessert. Paris Plus calls these museum-based restaurant trends a new wave, but it's one we're happy to ride all the way to shore.
Restaurants creating and supporting communities
Many restaurants have become places that help foster communities, offer customers accessible dine-at-home options (especially throughout the pandemic), and shine a spotlight on overlooked communities and cultures through food and means of support. In tough economic times, restaurants must seek new ways to draw in the crowds and convince them to part with their hard-earned money. Looking around the Parisian food scene, it's clear that everyone, from stall owners to chefs, to customers, understands these requirements and social responsibilities.
One example of building a community that's proving to be popular is a monthly subscription service, which for a flat rate, allows customers access to one meal a day within the restaurant group Pizza Del Arte, (via B.F.M. business).
The need and desire for platforms to showcase the foods alongside the communities they represent continues to grow, as does the appetite for them. The folks behind Refugee Food understand this desire and are building a community that gives a platform and paid work to refugee chefs in Paris while simultaneously showcasing foods from these communities through the food they sell alongside public cooking classes, (per Refugee Food).
Lebanese market Tawlet is another example of community building. A must-visit spot in Paris, the organization grew out of its 2004 foundations in Beruit. It's known not only for its incredible food and 'farmer's kitchen' but celebrating Lebanon's regions and traditions, with profits returning to the communities of farmers, cooks, and producers, notes Tawlet Paris.
Bistronomy
What on earth is bistronomy, you say? It's a portmanteau of bistro and gastronomy, now making its way through articles like this to describe one of the Parisian trends for 2023. We reckon it's similar to a gastropub in the U.K., which combines a dedication to seasonal ingredients, comforting and often regionally-specific dishes, and creative cooking present in fine dining served in a warm and relaxed atmosphere. According to Paris Info, head to the city's east side to experience the bistronomica trend that has become increasingly popular with younger chefs.
Sortir a Paris has many recommendations for those searching for the comfort and creativity associated with bistronomy, including Truffles Folies, a perfect destination for those searching for the earthy, funky flavors related to the much-loved truffle. Truffles is located near the iconic and bustling Champg-Elysees. There are many other recommendations from Sortir a Paris, including Grain[s] in the Saint-Germain-des-Pres area, Restaurant Des Torres in Paris, and La Cantine Farmers for those searching for produce-heavy plates between the hours of 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Modern interpretations of French classics
Establishments like Septime lead the way within the Paris food scene with a minimalist-meets-contemporary approach to classic French bistro cooking. The restaurant has made it into the top half of The World's Best 50 Restaurants for two years running.
Another restaurant making the headlines for the chef's reinterpretation of French cuisine is Magma, run by classically trained Japanese chef Ryuyo Ono with Lucie Paulhan. Ono comes with a pedigree of experience in classic French dining.
Having only opened in the summer of 2022, the restaurant is already reportedly drawing crowds, offering customers an ever-changing menu based on ingredient availability, alongside a unique interpretation of French cuisine that comes "twisted with a few Japanese touches," says Sortir a Paris.
Bertrand Grébaut, chef and owner of the award-winning Septime, says, "Even if we can claim that French cuisine is rooted in a tradition of 'territory,' it doesn't mean we can't refresh it — that we can shake up the rules and practice it differently," (via 50 Best).
French Bouillons continue a resurgence
As this list is working to showcase, there's something really wonderful happening within the Parisian food scene. Paris will always be a city filled to the brim with exquisite dining options that feature techniques, ingredients, and talents that chefs and producers have spent a lifetime refining. However, there is a growing movement away from the prevention, privilege, and price tag associated with these kinds of spots too.
In Paris in 2023, you'll also find a continued resurgence of establishments like bouillons. While a robust method of flavoring stocks and soups, bullions are also a style of restaurant that sits near almost canteen or cafeteria adjacent in its targeted catering for blue-collared workers in search of a quick and substantial meal before returning to their posts. Writer Lucas Oakeley likens them to be the first chain establishments, running from as early as the mid-1800s, eventually driven by growing demands for aspirational cooking by the French middle class and perhaps by the inevitability of corporate fast food, (via Suitcase).
Oakeley recommends a trip to Bouillon Pigalle, one of the bouillon establishments that is leading the resurgence. Come with an appetite, and a book or good company, alongside the expectation that you will have to wait for a significant-but-worthwhile amount of time for a table.
Hidden bars
Sometimes the best places to eat and drink in a city like Paris are not the ones heavily on display or with large P.R. teams, but rather the establishments that are cleverly hidden away from view, looking to draw in a quieter yet discerning crowd of those with their fingers on the pulse of cool.
Such is the case with Danico, the 45-seat bar located inside the original flagship of Jean Paul Gaultier, hidden behind a velvet curtain (of course) at the very back of a decoy masquerading as a busy pizza-focused trattoria. Despite being tucked away, it still managed to catch the eye of the ever-discerning 50 Best, alongside another establishment drawing inspiration from the speakeasy era of Prohibition in the U.S.
Moonshiner is that speakeasy. It exists behind a hidden metal door inside Pizza da Vito's walk-in fridge. So hidden from view that, like "The Lion, The Witch, and the Wardrobe," it almost feels fictional; its clientele is genuinely in the know (via 50 Best Discovery). Its name, alongside its cocktail list, plays tribute to the era during which drinking was cloaked in secrecy and intrigue.
According to Where Tian Travels, speakeasies are gaining traction in Paris, offering visitors an intimate and chic experience and insight into what lies beneath the city's surface. For more listings, privy only to those in the know, check out a few others recommended by Sortir a Paris.