Tuscan Pappa Al Pomodoro Recipe

If you've never had it before, pappa al pomodoro can be a little confusing. Pomodoro, you might know, translates to tomato and is familiar to us because of the simple Italian pomodoro sauce. Pappa, though, translates roughly to "mush" and better describes the dish than "soup" or "stew" would. Pappa al pomodoro isn't really a traditional soup, you see. In early rural Italy, this recipe afforded the peasant class the ability to use up stale bread by soaking it in broth and tomato. This gave otherwise inedible bread a custard-like quality that could be enjoyed as an extra-filling tomato soup. The hearty dish eventually made its way out of the working class and became a staple across Italy. But still, pappa al pomodoro remains the same as it always was: soft Tuscan bread in a bright tomato broth.

This recipe by Michelle McGlinn walks through how to make a classic Tuscan pappa al pomodoro. Like many Italian recipes, the ingredient list is lean, focusing instead on the freshness and quality of the ingredients rather than the quantity. If you're tempted to tinker with the recipe, we suggest you don't stray too far from what's written. Trust us, it's the Italian way.

Grab the best olive oil you can get your hands on (extra virgin is ideal), along with onion, garlic, white wine, and crusty bread. Then, pick up some chicken broth, whole canned tomatoes, salt, pepper, and basil. We suggest seeking out San Marzano tomatoes, which are believed to be sweeter, less acidic, and fresher tasting than other canned varieties. Of course, unless you're a tomato connoisseur, the difference is minimal, so you can use any whole peeled tomato or tomato puree you love.

Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium-low heat.

Add the onion and garlic and sweat until very soft, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes.

Add the white wine and bring to a simmer. Reduce by half.

Add the bread and toast lightly, then cover with chicken broth. Bring the broth to a simmer and cook for 15-20 minutes, until the bread is very soft.

Add the tomatoes, crushing by hand to create a puree. Bring to a simmer and cook until thick, about 5-10 minutes.

Season the soup to taste with salt and pepper, then add the torn basil.

Serve with an extra drizzle of olive oil, cracked black pepper, fresh basil, and flaked parmesan, if desired.

It's kind of a rule with pappa al pomodoro that the dish be made with true Tuscan bread. Not all of us live in Italy, unfortunately, so the rules have to be reinterpreted a bit. Most stores sell a crusty Italian loaf, which will be very close to pane Toscano. Other options might include French bread, ciabatta, or baguette, which are neutral in flavor and similar in texture. Avoid breads like sourdough, which have a strong flavor on their own and will change the essence of the dish.

Believe it or not, bread can be too stale, making it impossible to slice or cook down. The bread should be firm, but not rock-solid; most bread should be used within a week. If you'd like to make a batch of pappa al pomodoro and only have fresh bread on hand, just slice it into cubes and toast it for a few minutes in the oven to give it a more sturdy texture.

Pappa al pomodoro is essentially vegetarian already, provided you swap the chicken broth for vegetable stock. The most traditional version of pappa al pomodoro also forgoes any cheese, so the dish can easily be served vegan. What's less traditional is adding meat, but that doesn't mean it can't be done.

To add some protein to this soup, you could try Italian sausage, chicken, or even pancetta. The best way to incorporate these meats is to slice and sear them in the pot first, then continue with the recipe as normal, simmering the meats along with the tomato and broth until very tender. This could work with slowly braised meats like pork butt or beef ribs too, but we recommend adding the bread toward the end of the cooking process, after the meat is tender, to avoid it completely dissolving. That way, you can have pulled pork or shredded beef in a rich sauce with chunky bread pieces.

Because pappa al pomodoro is made with bread, it's very filling and can serve as a meal on its own. After all, it was originally intended to feed Italian farmers with large appetites and a need to stretch every dollar. You can enjoy this soup on its own with crisp white wine for summertime — try chilling the pappa beforehand for an extra refreshing meal — or dry reds for winter. It also makes a great side dish to hearty meat dishes, such as chicken parmesan, large homemade meatballs, or roasted porchetta.

Pappa al pomodoro stores surprisingly well, too, so if you make a large batch, don't worry about eating it all at once. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week. If you're someone who gets tired of leftovers, pappa al pomodoro can be reused as a pasta sauce, too!