Here's How An Expert Pairs Wine With White Fish

Just when you think you have the art of wine pairing for fish, beef, or anything else figured out, the wine world throws little curveballs at you. You probably know the basics — white wine for seafood, red wine for heavier meats — but general rules like that can only take you so far. Any fish lover knows that within that world there are as many different types of recipes, cooking styles, and sauces as there are fish in the sea. Is smoked salmon really going to be paired with the same type of wine as white fish such as poached haddock or grilled swordfish? Obviously not. 

Well, Tasting Table knows that the best answer to these questions comes from experts, so we reached out to Vajra Stratigos, the director of operations at Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar, and asked him what he would pair with some grilled white fish. Stratigos reminded us that, while white wine is usually the go-to for fish, "the ideal wine is largely dependent upon the preparation." 

He told us that grilled dishes with flavors from tomatoes or mushrooms would make a wide variety of wines ideal, but for meaty white fish, he said "Mahi with its uniquely flaky and firm texture is a great one for the grill," and added the suggestion "I think most full-bodied whites would be best." His choice was the Spanish wine Godello, specifically the 2020 vintage from Bodegas Raul Perez, which he described as "ripe and floral with a good mineralic backbone."

While white wines are usually recommended for fish because their light flavor pairs well with seafood's lack of fat, grilling adds a strong savory element that needs the more full-bodied whites that Vajra Stratigos suggests. Full-bodied whites have more deep, aromatic flavors and a heavier viscosity, which helps them stand up to the stronger flavors of meaty white fish that's been cooked over charcoal or a fire.  Another example that Stratigos suggests, this time for whole grilled fish like red snapper, is Picpoul from Washington State. 

This is a less common French grape that's known for its strong, sharp acidity, and he recommends the Greg Harrington at Gramercy Cellars Picpoul, saying "An unlikely domestic varietal comes to life in this rendition with brilliant winemaking and pure varietal typicity, this is a stunner for a fish wine." If you don't have easy access to some of the wine varietals Stratigos recommends, there are still plenty of common full-bodied whites for your white fish dinner. 

Chardonnay, with its strong oaked flavor, is the best known full-bodied white, and there are plenty of good Chardonnay options at budget prices. Other more common varieties you might find are Italian Trebbiano, and the increasingly popular Viognier. Going through the trouble of nailing down the perfect type of white wine for your fish may seem like a lot, but as Stratigos knows, a great wine pairing makes all the work worth it.