Disney World's Dahlia Lounge Doesn't Quite Live Up To Art Lovers' Expectations

I recently found out Disney World has a Dalí-inspired bar tucked away in its Coronado Springs Resort, and as a fan of modern art, I had to check it out. Based on a short film dreamed up by Spanish surrealist artist Salvador Dalí and Walt Disney, the rooftop bar offers up a menu featuring Basque and tapas-style food and cocktails. Behind the massive bar, televisions play the (finally finished and released in 2003) film "Destino," which follows the love story of Chronos and Dahlia. Anyone familiar with Dalí's work will see nods to his oeuvre, not only in the story of Chronos (who represents time) and his mortal paramour, but also in the shifting surrealist landscape, featuring iconography such as melting clocks, dandelions, and crawling ants. Perhaps that's why the Walt Disney World team chose to honor this work in the form of a cocktail bar, which feels decidedly adult.

As can be expected from a Disney property, the interior of the lounge includes numerous references to the film and Dalí's other art, some more overt and some only fans of the artist will spy. There are metal divider walls patterned with cutouts mimicking Dahlia's dramatic belltower fall from the film that, upon closer inspection, reveal an eye (presumably referencing the artist's larger body of work, where the symbol is frequently represented). The starburst lights recall inverted dandelions, while the bar evokes shifting sands and melting mirrors, all playing out in the artist's signature dusky hues: yellow ochers, dusty blues, enveloping shades of black, and deep reds. Open 5 p.m. to midnight, in Dahlia Lounge, it feels as if the sun is endlessly setting.

Unfortunately for art lovers, the surrealist influence essentially ends with the decor. Nothing from the film or Dalí's work is mirrored in the menu, which is a fairly straightforward expression of Spanish/ Basque cuisine. That's not to say the food and drink is bad or even boring, but I would have loved to see more of that creative spark shine through. When I asked the executive chef of Dahlia Lounge how much of the menu was inspired by surrealism and art, he explained, "When this opened, the presentation of the food was kind of whimsical, and then we redid the menu," but they have "been working to bring that back. ... When you're doing a menu you also have to think of the clientele."

I was served a series of tapas, though there are more substantial menu items if you are looking for a full meal. (The lounge is also across the hall from Toledo, a formal seated restaurant, if you want to pop in for a drink and snack before your dinner reservation.) I was surprised to hear the dip — served with potato chips, in true Spanish style — is plant-based. The executive chef explained they use a vegan aioli base and then add chimichurri-inspired herbs and spices. It was incredibly creamy and a little tart, which helped the dip hold its own against the crunchy paprika chips. I also sampled the tapas trio, which they kindly made vegetarian-friendly by swapping the octopus ceviche for Marcona almonds. (I wholeheartedly agree with the chef's explanation for the choice: "You can't go wrong with Marcona almonds.") The trio also includes marinated olives and pan con tomate.

The standard Spanish theme carried on to the drink menu, which I had expected to be a bit more inventive, at least in presentation. I sampled the Gran Gin Tonic, which is made with saffron. The cocktail didn't really deliver a unique flavor compared to your standard G&T, though it did have a gorgeous, shocking yellow hue. I also tried the Sangrina-tini (as the name suggests, a red sangria-based martini). Again: beautiful, but familiar.

Lest you think I am slamming the menu, it contains options like sangria and other wine-based drinks, cocktails with a spicy kick or featuring ingredients most likely unfamiliar to the average consumer, and a lovely wine list highlighting Spanish producers. For many Disney visitors, it's likely this menu does seem quite daring. It's just all presented in a way that didn't quite meet my expectations when I heard "Dalí-inspired cocktail bar."

Would I suggest a trip to the Dahlia Lounge? If you're in the area or looking for a more grown-up Disney experience that doesn't feel too fancy (while the Grand Floridian's Enchanted Rose is lovely, it doesn't exactly feel like a place you could simply swing by on your way back from a day in the Magic Kingdom) it's worth a visit. In fact, if it was nestled in a corner of Epcot, I would say Dahlia Lounge is a must-try, but due to the amount of time it takes to get there, I found the lack of commitment to the theme disappointing.

Hopefully on my next visit I'll find more whimsy and artistic flair in the food and drink, as the chef indicated they were interested in bringing a touch of that back. All in all, at Disney World's Dahlia Lounge, the food is delicious, the cocktails are creative and well crafted, but art lovers looking for a truly memorable surrealist experience won't find it.