How Dolley Madison Became An Ice Cream Icon

James Madison is one of the most famous founding fathers, writing numerous political papers such as parts of the Federalist Papers and the United States Constitution, and eventually becoming the fourth President of the U.S. What some may not know is that he had a political powerhouse, ice cream-loving wife behind him all the way: Dolley Madison.

Dolley and James married in 1794, and from this point on, Dolley was ingrained in the political fabric of America, supporting her husband's career wherever he went. But this doesn't mean she didn't have anything for herself; on the contrary, the first lady was known for her impeccable hosting skills and bright spirit. Because of her memorable nature at gatherings where ice cream was doled out by the scoop for guests, Dolley has become synonymous with the frozen treat.

While it's a myth that Dolley salvaged George Washington's portrait from a burning White House, it's no myth that she truly was the hostess of hostesses; her enthusiasm for public life shaped the role of the first lady forever. She helped host gatherings for a widowed President Jefferson and also helped Martha Washington with her parties, but most people of the time likely knew Dolley for her famous Wednesday night drawing room gatherings, glamorous and crowded events where she was known to serve all sorts of ice cream flavors.

Ice cream has roots in the second century, and was only brought to the U.S. in the 1700s; the first ice cream recipe recorded by an American came from Thomas Jefferson (making him the president who popularized ice cream). Though Dolley didn't invent it, she became one of the treat's biggest supporters at the White House, in part thanks to a freed Black woman, according to some accounts. Legend has it that caterer Sallie Shadd garnered a reputation for her delicious strawberry ice cream. Dolley visited Shadd, tried it, and loved the ice cream so much, she included it as a dessert at her husband's inaugural ball in 1813.

Some of Dolley's ice cream recipes may have also come from Mary Randolph's cookbook "The Virginia Housewife; Or, Methodical Cook." The Madisons were friends with Randolph, and she sent them a copy of her book; it even contains a recipe for one of Dolley's favorite flavors, oyster, among 13 others.

Dolley's name has lived on in the public eye, such as through ice cream brands like Dolly Madison Dairy of La Crosse (which, yes, dropped the "e" from her name). La Crosse Dairy, which operated from the 1930s to the 1970s, expanded well beyond sherbet and ice cream, becoming a powerhouse distribution company for various products, including milk, butter, and eggs. Perhaps La Crosse Dairy even made Dolley's favored oyster ice cream.