The Dry White Wine Alton Brown Adds To French Onion Soup
Anthony Bourdain's favorite French onion soup "ingredient" was a blowtorch. For Alton Brown, when it comes to French onion soup, it's all about the dry stuff — specifically, 16 fluid ounces of sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio, according to a recipe posted on his official website. Some foodies prefer red wine in their melty, cheesy bowlful, but to this self-described "foodist," white wine is the way to go.
For such a luxurious, rich dish, French onion soup is the product of a minimal combination of ingredients. As such, its success is all about nailing the flavor and texture of onions and the broth, which is where white wine comes in. The strong, sweet caramelized onion flavor needs a wine that can hold up to its boldness. No delicate white will do here, and the crisp, dry brightness and firm acidity of both sauvignon blanc and pinot grigio can cut through this soup's richness.
The presence of dry white wine can also enhance and emphasize other aromas, while the alcohol releases flavor molecules in the other ingredients, showcasing the nuanced dish's taste beyond the capabilities of broth, butter, or olive oil. You can take a cue from fondue as evidence of how that acidic, complex dry white wine will pair beautifully with the cheesy cap of gruyere on top of every bowl.
Brown swears by pinot grigio or sauvignon blanc in his French onion soup
Alton Brown's illustrious career in the food industry began as a pizza delivery driver, but that hasn't stopped him from developing recipes for sophisticated pillars like classic French onion soup. To incorporate the dry white wine, Brown sweats Vidalia onions in butter, as you normally might when making French onion soup, then tops the sauteing onions with just enough sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio to cover. As he notes in his recipe, "You might not use all the wine, and that's okay." This dry, bright white wine intermingles with savory clarified beef broth, chicken broth, and splash of cognac for a dimensional, complex soup, all topped by a thick cap of melted Fontina or gruyere cheese.
For the absolute best French onion soup, you can still opt for a budget-friendly variety here (just please, anything but "cooking wine"). However, as a general rule, it's best not to cook with a wine you wouldn't drink. That said, using sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio in your next batch of French onion soup can also be a thrifty way to use the dregs of an open bottle, or to finish off wine that's been open for a week or two.