The English Lemon Cake With A Built-In Wine Pairing In Its Name

A slice of cake with a cup of tea is an English tradition that has lasted for centuries. Whether it's at home with family or at a classic teahouse with friends, folks across the United Kingdom always enjoy a little something sweet when having "a cuppa," often dunking the cake, cookie, or biscuit into their tea. In the 18th century, however, it was fashionable among the aristocracy to dunk these treats in sweet Portuguese wines such as Madeira. 

Since the idea was to enjoy the flavor of the wine, the cakes needed to be simple and have the right consistency; for this reason, a crumbly, lemon-flavored sponge cake was preferred, which became known as Madeira cake in the 1800s. One of the earliest known recipes appears in Eliza Acton's "Modern Cookery for Private Families," published in 1845. 

Similar in taste to a pound cake, Madeira cake seems to have fallen out of grace, dismissed as dry and plain compared to modern, more flavorful cakes. But that's because people don't serve it alongside a glass of Madeira, as it was originally meant to be. It may be served dusted with powdered sugar or topped with lemon peel, but traditionalists prefer it plain so the characteristic crack that forms on the top is visible. 

Madeira is a fortified wine produced and bottled in the Portuguese archipelago of Madeira. It's made from one or more specific local grape varietals, through a unique heating system discovered by accident during the aging process. There are various styles, from dry to medium dry, medium sweet, and sweet. The flavors therefore vary, showing notes of caramel, honey, brown sugar, and dried fruit, with nutty, earthy touches and hints of salinity from the vineyards' location close to the ocean. It is similar to Port, but perhaps a bit more savory, reminiscent of walnuts.

Madeira cake's subtle sweetness and lemon flavor make it a perfect match for Madeira, whether you like to dunk as they did in England in the 1800s or sip it on the side. It's super easy to make, using only flour, butter, eggs, sugar, baking powder, and lemon. For a flavor variation, you could add a couple of teaspoons of caraway seeds to the batter, or increase the lemon juice and add a tablespoon or two of poppy seeds. You can make Madeira cake ahead and store it for up to a week in an airtight container, or wrap it tightly in a double layer of plastic wrap and foil and freeze it for up to three months.