This Century-Old Country Store In Mississippi Sizzles Up Some Of The South's Best Catfish

As a born and bred child of the Mississippi Delta, not much about Deep South culture surprises me, particularly when it sits on a plate. Eating fried catfish is second nature, an easy answer to "whatcha gonna have for supper tonight?" It's always an option, given the prevalence of catfish cafes, shacks, diners, or even highbrow restaurants sizzling up the whiskered wonders. That's why I did a serious double-take the first time I bumped across the country road leading to Taylor Grocery, aka "that catfish place," as it's referred to locally. It nestles within the tiny community of Taylor, Mississippi, about 10 miles from the much livelier university town of Oxford, home to the Ole Miss Rebels football team and literary giant William Faulkner. 

The dusty road leads to a perfectly preserved old-time country store from 1889, which originally sold dry goods and now offers some of the most famous and tastiest catfish in the South. Weathered storefronts in Taylor, population 415, are eerily preserved, barely changed for over a century. Outside Taylor Grocery, throngs of hungry diners lounge on the sprawling front porch, telling stories, plucking guitars, passing time until their turn at the table. Inside, every inch of wall space is coated with memorabilia, graffiti, and object-art, while live music thumps, twangs, or moans, depending on whether it's blues, country, jazz, zydeco, or something in-between. 

As mesmerizing as it is, I soon discovered that the allure of Taylor Grocery goes far beyond its obvious authenticity. It really is all about the catfish — and the sassy Southern-fare sidekicks.

Mark Twain once said, "the catfish is a plenty good enough fish for anybody." After a visit to Taylor Grocery, most folks agree. Catfish is undeniably the star of this foodie parade, but not just any ol' catfish. Traditionally, catfish carries a muddy reputation, especially when caught naturally in ponds and lakes where the fish feed indiscriminately. But U.S. farm-raised catfish have changed the equation, including the ones at Taylor Grocery. 

The owners source their fish from Heartland Catfish, which nourishes the whiskered swimmers with a floating feed based on high-protein grains, with no antibiotics or added hormones. This coaxes the catfish away from bottom-feeding and the resulting muddy flavors. Consequently, the fish from Heartland carry a milder taste with a touch of sweetness from the grains. It's then all about the preparation.

Fried catfish fillets are the favored menu item at Taylor Grocery, featuring a crispy, crunchy coating of cornmeal and wheat flour. Though less common, patrons can also order a whole deep-fried catfish, blackened catfish, or even a grilled fillet with Taylor's own seasoning blends. Piled-high plates of the hot fish slide onto red checkered tablecloths, accompanied by Deep South classics like Cajun gumbo, hushpuppies, turnip greens, fried okra, and lots more. Diners often take to a tiny dance floor, working up an appetite for Rah's pecan pie, Miss Minnie's peach cobbler, or Deb's chocolate cobbler. Though the restaurant's motto is "Eat or We Both Starve," I doubt that anyone ever goes hungry at Taylor Grocery.