The Indiana Restaurant With James Beard-Approved Fried Chicken

If you haven't heard of Oldenburg, Indiana, you're not alone. The small town has a population of fewer than 700 people, but what it lacks in size, it makes up for in charm. First founded in 1817, making it one of the oldest communities in Indiana, it quickly became a settling ground for southern German immigrants. Their influence is still felt today, in the city name, its architecture, and even the food scene. 

One restaurant, Wagner's Village Inn, boasts a German name and vibe but mostly serves American classics — a perfect fusion of Oldenburg and Indiana. It's most famous dish? The pan-fried chicken in hog fat. Just last year, Wagner's Village Inn was one of six restaurants to win the James Beard in the American Classics category. According to James Beard, the American Classics award goes to "locally owned restaurants that have timeless appeal and are beloved regionally for quality food that reflects the character of its community."

Southeastern Indiana is not exactly where you think of when you think of award-winning fried chicken. According to the James Beard write-up about the restaurant, "there is no recipe," just good 'ol farmhouse culinary tradition. The team behind the fried chicken at Wagner's relies on a modest ingredient list including chicken, salt, pepper, flour, and lard. Lard is a common fat used in old-school Southern fried chicken recipes, but what differs in the Indiana-style version of the crispy bird is the amount of black pepper used to season the chicken. Hint: It's a lot. 

Ginger Saccomando, the owner of Wagner's Village Inn, says the restaurant's founders, her parents, learned the recipe from the original pioneers of the regional fried chicken. The healthy serving of course pepper, packs a heated punch without overpowering the entire dish. Served in 10 pieces with all the fixin's — creamy coleslaw, green beans, and gravy mashed potatoes — this is the true, Midwestern-style version of traditional Southern meal.