Why 'Sulfite-Free' Is A Misleading Label For Wine

The phrase "contains sulfites" is printed on many if not most bottles of wine, typically somewhere on the back label. The words admittedly read like a warning label, which is inherently off-putting. But, more accurately, "sulfite-free" actually means "no sulfites added," and despite their exaggerated harmful effects, sulfites aren't to blame for a post-sip headache.

Sulfites (aka sulfur dioxide, SO2) are natural compounds produced as a byproduct of wine fermentation (not unlike grape must). Happily, they also serve a utilitarian purpose, acting as a natural preservative to help your wine age like, well, fine wine. However, those delicate natural sulfites aren't hefty enough on their own to preserve a bottle to vintage status. Without sulfites, all the prized bottles stashed in wine cellars worldwide would lose their quality pretty quickly. This is why it's common practice for winemakers to add further sulfites in their batches, extending shelf life without interrupting the wine's existing aromatic profile. The element sulfur is a natural anti-microbial, and added sulfites are necessary to stave off oxidation and discourage bacterial growth. When it's gotta be fresh, it's gotta be sulfites.

Since sulfites come from yeast, and all wines are made with yeast, it's literally impossible for any wine to be totally sulfite-free. But, wines with this label contain less than 10 ppm (parts per million) of sulfites. Dry red wines naturally pack the lowest concentration of sulfites, while sweet whites contain more natural sulfites.

Some folks are wary of sulfites due to their bad (if erroneous) reputation as being a potential allergen. But, the culprit of any wine-induced headaches are more likely histamines, tannins, added sugars or gelatins, or just ethanol alcohol itself. Sulfites' lingering MSG-esque hysteria is a leftover aftertaste of a spike in sulfur allergies that emerged during the 1980s as a result of the high levels of sulfur used in food preservatives at the time. Today, an estimated 1% of people are actually allergic to sulfites, most of whom are already diagnosed with asthma. But, FDA regulations still require winemakers to list whether their wines contain added sulfites on the packaging. Rest assured, sulfites themselves aren't attached to any health risks (outside of those with sulfite sensitivity, of course). Added sulfites are also present in jarred condiments, jellies, dried fruit snacks, potato chips, and more, none of which have been accused of causing a headache. 

Still, if the "sulfite-free" label piques your interest, keep an eye out for wines labelled "low intervention," or European wines labelled "sans-soufre" or "senza solfiti" (without sulfur). Some enthusiasts even maintain that low-sulfite wine is more expressive, as the absence of sulfur can help a wine's more nuanced notes shine through. Although, consequently, low-sulfite wines don't age as well, and must be consumed within a significantly shorter window after bottling. Organic wines (not to be confused with natural wines) must also contain no added sulfites.